Toledo, Spain
We woke up on a cold morning in Madrid with our heads still devoid of much needed sleep the next day but disregarded it instantly because we are to take a day trip to Toledo!
A UNESCO World Heritage site because of its magnificent representations of Mudéjar style/architecture prominent in it, the famed city of Toledo is found 70 kms south of Madrid and approximately an hour drive from the capital of Spain. It is a very small and quaint city that sits on top of a hill, enveloped by the Tajo River and surrounded by thick, old city walls which left a medieval fortress vibe for me.
It could be accessed by entering the majestic stone gate, Puerta de Bisagra, leading up to its narrow cobbled streets that tourists came to have known Toledo for.
Toledo had a very unusual history and setup with regards to their people. If you must know, Christians, Jews and Muslims, the three major cultures that lived in Spain, had lived side by side with each other before in this town. It was really a symbiosis and they were living peacefully amid the huge differences. The brotherly union among the three cultures is deeply engraved and interwoven through their buildings and architecture as I have come to see Toledo step by step. It is in this union that the Mudéjar style, which combines Islamic aesthetics with Christian styles, came to light.
One of the things that Toledo was most known for for centuries was their steel. Toledo has been supplying Europe’s military force swords and shields right up until weapons had been upgraded to firearms. They still make good quality swords though which tourists could bring home from the lovely city as a memorabilia or still use when the need comes up.
A lengthy walk from the sword making site took us to the majestic Catedral Primada Santa Maria de Toledo, or fondly called Toledo Cathedral just to cut its long name short. Though inspired by the Gothic cathedrals of France, Toledo Cathedral is nevertheless a melting pot of styles, including the Spanish Renaissance, Mudéjar and other more.
The cathedral is really magnificent with all the elaborate carvings and furnishings inside and out, but one of the things that really stood out for me was El Transparente, which is situated behind the main altar. It is a wall of marble sculptures, delicately lit by the light of the sun coming from a skylight cut in the ceiling. It was really magical and ethereal when the rays strategically light up the angel sculptures placed high above the wall. My heart literally stopped in awe and appreciation of the grandeur that was standing right in front of me!
Another unique thing I appreciated inside was the red hats hanging from the ceiling dominantly situated in front of El Transparente. The red hats actually belonged to the cardinals who are buried in the tombs directly beneath and their hats will stay there until their bodies rot away completely. So, if you saw a red hat above you it only means you are stepping on the tomb of the cardinal who owned it!
It is also one of those moments when I became proud as a Filipino. There was this museum inside which features all religious and cultural artefacts obtained from different places around the world, all made in gold, and one of the biggest treasures inside the room came from us, the Philippines. I wonder then how much it is worth!
After taking in the magnificent sights offered by the Cathedral, we braved the heat outside and went directly to the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes. Monasteries are very close in Spain’s heart because Kings and Queens primarily have lived there and many important, historic events happened in these places.
The Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes is one of the best monasteries, in terms of its beauty and importance, in Spain and was founded by King Ferdinand II and Queen Isabella I during the 15th century to celebrate the birth of their son and their win over the battle of Toro. The monastery embodies Gothic style with Spanish and Flemish influences, dressed up by Mudéjar ornamentations. The most notable thing that you will see are the chains and shackles hanging on the exterior of the monastery. These shackles were once used by the Moors of Granada to chain Christians. Then during the last decade, when the Moors were expelled from Granada, Christians brought the chains in the monastery as a symbol of their triumph and faith.
The sun was blazing and hunger struck hard after the tour so my friends and I just walked in the first restaurant we saw that offers enough shade and at the same time serves Spanish cuisine. The place is called La Casita bar, which is quite a coincidence since we have this school canteen in our university before back in the Philippines that has the same name and I had eaten most of my lunches there during my college days.
All the food that we ordered were delicious. The duck meat was unbelievably soft, the Paella had the right kick into it, and the Callos was divine! The three of us left nothing of the meal! It was heaven sent that we dine in La Casita because it was in here that my view about Toledo’s food had really been moulded. I will go back here even just for the food! It was the best meal I had when I was in Spain.
We exited through this medieval bridge across the Tajo River which links the city of Toledo to the west. Puente de San Martin as they call it is where we bid our goodbyes in this lovely city of Toledo. I promised myself that I will come back here. I do not know when but I will surely make it a point to come back here and rekindle my feelings for this charming city.
